Coursera 笔记

Module 01 · History and Scope of the Cosmetic Industry

The Cosmetic Revolution化妆品革命

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The twentieth century exploded with new cosmetic ideas, fashion trends and product innovations.
20 世纪涌现出新的美容理念、时尚潮流和产品创新。

Audience applying makeup at a lecture by beautician in Los Angeles, c. 1950. Source: Los Angeles Daily News Publication (1950).
在洛杉矶，一位美容师进行讲座时，观众正在化妆，约 1950 年。来源：洛杉矶每日新闻出版（1950 年）。

As cities got more crowded, people realized they needed better hygiene practices to prevent the spread of disease. During the Industrial Revolution, which was the transition from creating goods by hand to using machines, how people started using cosmetics changed because of advancements in chemistry and manufacturing. Also, it became easier to buy ingredients because they were safer and less expensive.
随着城市变得更加拥挤，人们意识到需要更好的卫生习惯来预防疾病的传播。在工业革命期间，从手工制造商品过渡到使用机器，由于化学和制造业的进步，人们使用化妆品的方式发生了变化。此外，由于原料更安全、更便宜，购买原料也变得更加容易。

Initially, fats from animals like tallow and lard were the primary raw materials used in soap-making. Interestingly, the first commercial soap manufacturers in the United States were located in cities with flourishing meat-packing industries, such as the Procter & Gamble Company in Cincinnati, Ohio (Spitz, 1990).
最初，动物脂肪如脂和猪油是肥皂制造的主要原料。有趣的是，美国最早的商业肥皂制造商位于肉类加工产业繁荣的城市，例如位于俄亥俄州辛辛那提的宝洁公司（Spitz，1990 年）。

Let’s discover cosmetics innovation from 1900 to 1991.
让我们探索从 1900 年到 1991 年的化妆品创新。

Twentieth-Century Cosmetics Innovation
二十世纪化妆品创新

Men saw an ingenious invention in beard care in 1901. An improvement on the razor brought shaving closer to home as the combination of a straight handle and disposable blades meant men could conveniently shave at home in their own time (Procter & Gamble, 2023).
1901 年，男士在须后护理方面看到了一项巧妙的发明。剃刀的改进使剃须更贴近家庭，直柄和可替换刀片的结合意味着男士可以在自己的时间里方便地在家剃须（宝洁公司，2023 年）。

Eugène Schueller, founder of L’Oréal, invented modern synthetic hair dye and started production in 1909. It was more subtle than the bright, artificial look that mineral salts or henna provided. Its popularity extended across the borders of France into other countries of Europe (First Versions, n.d.).
欧仁·舒勒尔，巴黎欧莱雅的创始人，发明了现代合成染发剂，并于 1909 年开始生产。它比矿物质盐或印度墨水提供的鲜艳、人工感更微妙。它的流行跨越了法国的边界，扩展到欧洲其他国家（第一版本，无日期）。

Lipsticks were revolutionary for the time and were an improvement on rouge and powder because they were colorful and cheap. The mass production of the metal tube to carry lipstick started in 1915 (Angeloglou, 1970).
口红在当时是革命性的产品，它们比胭脂和粉饼有所改进，因为它们色彩丰富且价格低廉。用于盛放口红的金属管大规模生产始于 1915 年（Angeloglou，1970）。

The first patent for a nail polish was granted in 1919. Its color was a very faint pink, and it mirrored modest ideas of the time (Riordan, 2004). Advances in nail polish paint’s durability and changes in cultural norms spread the use of nail polish fast (Hoobler & Hoobler, 2000).
第一项指甲油的专利于 1919 年获得。其颜色非常淡的粉色，反映了当时谦逊的观念（Riordan，2004）。指甲油涂料的耐久性进步以及文化规范的改变迅速推广了指甲油的使用（Hoobler & Hoobler，2000）。

In the 1920s, Hollywood played a significant role in shaping trends within the cosmetics industry. Helena Rubinstein, who served as Bara’s makeup artist, developed mascara for the actress based on her experimentation with kohl (Angeloglou, 1970). During this time, other individuals recognized the potential in the mass market of cosmetics, such as Max Factor Sr. and Elizabeth Arden. Numerous makeup manufacturers we know today were established in the 1920s and 1930s.
20 世纪 20 年代，好莱坞在塑造化妆品行业趋势方面发挥了重要作用。作为巴拉的化妆师，海伦娜·鲁宾斯坦根据她对眼线的实验，为这位女演员开发了睫毛膏（Angeloglou，1970）。在这个时期，其他人也意识到了化妆品大众市场的潜力，例如马克斯·法克勒和伊丽莎白·阿登。我们今天所熟知的许多化妆品制造商都是在 20 世纪 20 年代和 30 年代成立的。

Like others, Maybelline had a commercial mascara of pressed cakes composed of soap and pigments. The application process involved a woman dipping a small brush into hot water, rubbing the bristles on the cake, removing excess water by rolling the brush onto blotting paper or a sponge, and subsequently applying the mascara (Riordan, 2004).
像其他人一样，美宝莲也有由肥皂和色素组成的压制成型的睫毛膏。使用过程涉及一位女性将小刷子浸入热水中，将刷毛在膏体上摩擦，通过将刷子滚动在吸油纸或海绵上去除多余水分，然后涂抹睫毛膏（Riordan，2004）。

The Flapper style had an impact on the cosmetics of the 1920s, as noted by Emily Spivack (2013). This era popularized features such as dark eyes, red lipstick, red nail polish, and the suntan, which was introduced as a fashion statement by Coco Chanel. Suntan products became popular. In previous years, a suntan was associated with the working class laboring all day in the hot sun, while pale skin in the West was considered the height of sophistication.
装饰艺术风格对 20 年代的化妆品产生了影响，Emily Spivack（2013）有此论述。这个时代普及了诸如深色眼睛、红色口红、红色指甲油和晒黑等特征，其中晒黑作为一种时尚宣言由可可·香奈儿引入。晒黑产品变得流行。在以往年份，晒黑与整天在烈日下劳作的工人阶级相关联，而西方的苍白皮肤被认为是高雅的顶峰。

The popularity of the eyebrow pencil soared in the 1920s, partly due to technological advancements. One such advancement was the introduction of hydrogenated vegetable oils as a new ingredient (Riordan, 2004).
在 20 年代，眉笔的流行度飙升，部分原因是技术进步。其中一项进步是引入氢化植物油作为新成分（Riordan，2004）。

Olay’s first product was a facial moisturizer, but it was called a “beauty fluid.” It was released in 1952. Graham Wulff, the inventor, “decided to endeavor to formulate a skin care preparation as close as possible in chemical constitution to skin sebum.” In 1989, Olay reformulated the beauty fluid and began describing it as an “advanced moisture replenishment lotion.” That same year, Olay released its first Intensive Moisture Complex (Procter & Gamble, n.d.).
欧莱雅的第一款产品是一款面部保湿霜，但它被称为“美容液”。该产品于 1952 年推出。发明者格雷厄姆·沃尔夫（Graham Wulff）决定“努力研发一种在化学成分上尽可能接近皮肤皮脂的护肤品”。1989 年，欧莱雅重新配方美容液，并开始将其描述为“高级保湿滋润乳液”。同年，欧莱雅推出了其首款强效保湿复合精华（宝洁公司，n.d.）。

Procter & Gamble popularized anti-dandruff shampoos like and 2-in-1 shampoos. Head & Shoulders, a brand of anti-dandruff shampoos and conditioners, burst onto the market in 1961, making it one of the first anti-dandruff shampoos (Procter & Gamble, n.d.).
宝洁公司推广了去屑洗发水和两合一洗发水。1961 年，去屑洗发水和护发素品牌“海飞丝”进入市场，成为首批去屑洗发水之一（宝洁公司，n.d.）。

The colorant properties of dihydroxyacetone, commonly referred to as DHA, were discovered in the 1950s by Dr. Eva Wittgenstein. She noticed that when the medicine she was using splattered, it stained the patients’ skin but not their clothes. The brand Coppertone launched a product using DHA called Quick Tan in the 1960s and is often regarded as the first mass-market sunless tanner (Wittgenstein & Berry, 1961).
二羟丙酮（DHA）的着色特性于 20 世纪 50 年代由埃娃·维特根斯坦博士发现。她注意到，当她使用的药物溅出时，会染色患者的皮肤，但不会染色他们的衣服。品牌“科珀顿”（Coppertone）在 20 世纪 60 年代推出了一款使用 DHA 的产品，名为“快速晒黑”，通常被认为是首个大众市场无阳光晒黑产品（维特根斯坦 & 贝里，1961）。

Pert Plus, a 2-in-1 shampoo, pioneered the concept of combining shampoo and conditioner in one product in 1985 (Procter & Gamble, n.d.).
潘婷，一款合一型洗发水，于 1985 年首创将洗发水和护发素结合于单一产品的理念（宝洁公司，无日期）。

Olay launched a Daily UV Protectant with an SPF of 15 in 1991. This innovation introduced sun care as part of a daily routine.
欧莱雅于 1991 年推出一款 SPF 值为 15 的每日防晒产品。这一创新将防晒护理纳入日常护肤程序。

Key Takeaways  主要收获

In the twentieth century, there was an explosion of cosmetics inventions. New technologies and the need for better hygiene enabled companies to revolutionize cosmetic product offerings.
在 20 世纪，化妆品发明出现了爆炸式增长。新技术的出现和对更好卫生的需求使公司能够革新化妆品产品供应。

Further Reading  拓展阅读

We provide the following resource if you want to learn more about the cosmetic revolution, especially the evolution of makeup (Smithsonian, 2016).
如果您想了解更多关于化妆品革命的内容，特别是化妆品的演变（Smithsonian，2016 年），我们提供以下资源。

References:   参考文献：