Module 01 · What is Fashion? What is Luxury? Defining Complex Competitive Systems and Business Logics
Best Practices in Fashion and Luxury Companies时尚与奢侈品企业的最佳实践
1. Fashionable but Above All Else "Responsible" Actions
1. 时尚且最重要的是"负责任"的行动
In recent years corporate social responsibility themes have increased their importance across all industries. These themes can involve a lot of projects and ideas, creating new balances among players. A company is no more a "closed box" but is more an "open ecosystem" involving all of its stakeholders: from shareholders to employees, from the local community to institutions, from the targeted customers to the network of suppliers. Below you can find some examples of "actions" taken by fashion companies to be more responsible and to start the endless debate of "aesthetics with ethics." Let's discover them!
近年来，企业社会责任主题在所有行业中日益重要。这些主题可能涉及许多项目和理念，在参与者之间创造新的平衡。公司不再是一个"封闭的盒子"，而是一个涉及所有利益相关者的"开放的生态系统"：从股东到员工，从当地社区到机构，从目标客户到供应商网络。以下是一些时尚公司为更加负责任而采取的"行动"的例子，以及"兼具美学与伦理"的无尽辩论的起点。让我们来发现它们！
Michael Kors allowing employees to volunteer during work hours
迈克尔·科尔斯允许员工在工作时间进行志愿服务
H&M Conscious Actions Sustainability Reports
H&M 有意识行动可持续发展报告
H&M and the importance of be aware of the product life cycle
H&M 与产品生命周期意识的重要性
http://about.hm.com/en/About/sustainability.html
Ralph Lauren and the Pink Pony campaign against cancer: this year a special hashtag for fundraising purpose
拉夫·劳伦与粉红小马抗癌活动：今年为筹款目的推出特别话题标签
http://global.ralphlauren.com/en-fr/About/Philanthropy/Pages/pink-pony-promise.aspx
Brunello Cuccinelli and the restoration of a small village
布鲁内洛·库奇内利与一个小村庄的修复
http://investor.brunellocucinelli.com/eng/company-profile/social-responsibility/
**People Tree: being sustainable from the roots of the company mission **
人树：从公司使命的根源实现可持续性
Diesel saving Ponte Rialto in Venice
柴油节省威尼斯的 Ponte Rialto
2. Partnerships & Collaborations
2. 合作与伙伴关系
Creating value is not only a matter of having a unique selling proposition, but this value proposition should evolve following company changes in the strategic plan and variations in the targeted market. These changes may be related to geography, product scope, the need to enlarge the targeted cluster of clients, the willingness to catch younger and/or older customers, entering new market segments, and diversifying the business, etc. In a fast moving web-oriented world, firms can be helped in reaching strategic goals by different tools. One of them is to start partnerships. They are not only partnerships between two fashion companies but they can involve both luxury and non-luxury brands in the same industry or luxury brands in different industries. Co-branding activities work properly when they create value for both brands involved and usually are represented by limited or special editions so that different values of the two labels cannot be confused! Below you can find some examples!
创造价值不仅是一个拥有独特销售主张的问题，这个价值主张还应该随着公司战略计划的改变和目标市场的变化而发展。这些变化可能与地理位置、产品范围、扩大目标客户群的需求、吸引更年轻和/或更年长的客户、进入新的市场细分以及多元化业务等有关。在一个快速发展的网络化世界中，公司可以通过不同的工具来实现战略目标。其中之一就是开始建立合作伙伴关系。这不仅是指两个时尚公司之间的合作伙伴关系，还可能涉及同一行业的奢侈和非奢侈品牌，或者不同行业的奢侈品牌。品牌联合活动在为所涉及的双方品牌创造价值时才能有效运作，通常以限量版或特别版的形式出现，以便不同品牌的价值观不会混淆！以下是一些例子！
Pepsi: the recent partnership with Vogue Italia and the one with Bloomingdales
百事：与 Vogue Italia 和 Bloomingdales 的最近合作
http://www.psfk.com/2014/04/pepsi-fashion-capsule-bloomingdales.html
Magnum & Dolce & Gabbana: an ice cream to celebrate Magnum 25th birthday
马格努姆与杜塞&加巴纳：庆祝马格努姆 25 周年的一块冰淇淋
http://www.buro247.com/me/lifestyle/news/dolce-gabbana-magnum-icecream.html
Wang for H&M, the last collaboration after many other fruitful one
为 H&M 的王，在众多富有成效的合作之后最后一次合作
http://www.popsugar.com/fashion/photo-gallery/34571864/image/35939100/Alexander-Wang-x-HM
Marc Jacobs as Diet Coke's creative director
马克·雅各布斯担任可口可乐的创意总监
http://www.coca-cola.co.uk/community/marc-jacobs-diet-coke-cans-bottles.html
Fashionable & Wearable 时尚且可穿戴
Beauty & Fashion: Derek Lam collaborating with Estée Lauder
时尚与美妆：德雷克·拉姆与雅诗兰黛合作
http://www.luckymag.com/beauty/2013/12/beauty-obsession-estee-lauder-and-derek-lam
Car Shoe & Lamborghini: a special pair of shoes to drive an outstanding car
汽车鞋与兰博基尼：一双特别的鞋子，驾驭卓越的汽车
http://w-fashion-and-cars.blogspot.it/2013/05/car-shoe-for-lamborghini-50th.html
The Hermès Bugatti 爱马仕布加迪
http://w-fashion-and-cars.blogspot.it/2013/04/bugatti-veyron-hermes.html
Four Indonesian public figures become designers for Kiehl’s
四位印尼公众人物成为科颜氏的设计师
http://daman.co.id/grooming-kiehls-special-package/
3. New trends in Fashion industry
3. 时尚行业的新趋势
If you are trying to enter the fashion business creating a new brand you can imagine original ways to serve the customers through the web, new ideas to communicate your value proposition and special events to attract potential clients. Let’s get inspired!
如果你正试图进入时尚行业，创建一个新品牌，你可以想象通过互联网为顾客提供创新的服务方式，提出新的沟通价值主张的创意，以及举办特别活动来吸引潜在客户。让我们获得灵感！
Marc Jacobs and the "tweet shop" in London: inside this temporary store born in London to promote the Daisy MJ fragrance you bought products not with real money but through the use of tweets (with #MJDaisyChain) about products presented in store because tweets turned into cash
马克·雅各布斯和伦敦的"推特商店"：这家临时商店诞生于伦敦，旨在推广 Daisy MJ 香水。在这里，顾客不是用真钱购买产品，而是通过使用推文（带有#MJDaisyChain 标签）来购买店内展示的产品，因为推文可以转化为现金。
http://www.eventmagazine.co.uk/marc-jacobs-open-pop-up-tweet-shop/destinations/article/1307304
Marc Jacobs “Cast Me Marc” campaign dedicated to common people willing to be models for FW14 advertising. They only had to use the hashtag "CastMeMarc" on Instagram on their photos and then the selection began
马克·雅各布斯的“Cast Me Marc”活动，专门面向愿意成为 FW14 广告模特的普通人。他们只需要在 Instagram 照片上使用#CastMeMarc 标签，然后选拔工作就开始了。
http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/2014/04/04/marc-by-marc-social-media-models
The arrival of drones during the FW14 Fendi fashion show. Fans could decide to enjoy the classic view of the runway captured by cameras on the ground or shots filmed by the Drone cameras (of course Fendi branded)
FW14 芬迪时装秀期间无人机的出现。观众可以选择欣赏地面摄像机拍摄的跑道经典视角，或由无人机摄像机（当然带有芬迪品牌标识）拍摄的镜头。
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GsOzdoBLuf8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cBl1lN-A-Wo
Netaporter.com's idea to use a window shop during a fashion's night out. With the use of a special app people could approach their mobile devices camera to the window and buy with special discounts or receive a gift
Netaporter.com** 在时尚之夜期间使用橱窗购物的创意。通过特别应用程序，人们可以将移动设备摄像头对准橱窗进行购物，享受特别折扣或获得礼品。**
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dTk_9pmqspE
Jeremy Scott's idea to shake up traditional cycle of fashion companies creating a Moschino capsule collection out of the entire FW 14 collection. The capsule was present in selected stores and e-commerce in the immediate days after the fashion show:
杰里米·斯科特（Jeremy Scott）的创意，旨在打破传统时装公司循环，将整个 FW 14 系列打造为莫斯奇诺（Moschino）胶囊系列。该胶囊在时装秀后立即出现在选定的商店和电子商务平台：
And what about Apple entering the business of watches or the increasing market of wearable devices? We have seen, up until now, how can technology and the internet can influence fashion but what about the reverse? Let’s start thinking great ideas for your own businesses!
苹果公司进入手表业务，或可穿戴设备市场的增长又将如何？迄今为止，我们已经看到了科技和互联网如何影响时尚，但反过来呢？让我们开始为你们自己的企业构思伟大的创意吧！
3.1 Internet & Technology: A Wide Range of Possibilities for the Fashion Industry
3.1 互联网与科技：时尚产业拥有广阔的可能性
The internet combined with modern technology has changed all market logic in a way that was completely unexpected just thirty years ago. We turned from "the economy of atoms to the one of bits or the digital economy" in a relative short span of time (C. Anderson, Makers: The new industrial revolution).
互联网与现代技术的结合，以一种三十年前完全未曾预料的方式改变了所有市场逻辑。在相对较短的时间内，我们实现了从“原子经济”到“比特经济”或“数字经济”的转变（C. Anderson，《制造者：新的工业革命》）。
Millennials do not even remember how it was before. They have to study and read how it was because the reality they know cannot exclude smartphones, interconnections, e-mail, YouTube, iTunes, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, hashtags, and even the possibility to buy a bus ticket with the mobile phone. The future generation will be known as "the App generation" (H. Gardner and K. Davis, The App Generation).
千禧一代甚至不记得过去是怎样的。他们必须学习和阅读过去的情况，因为他们所了解的现实无法排除智能手机、互联互通、电子邮件、YouTube、iTunes、Facebook、Twitter、Instagram、话题标签，甚至用手机购买公交票的可能性。下一代将被称为“应用程序一代”（H. Gardner 和 K. Davis，《应用程序一代》）。
Companies should take into great consideration all this information when, for example, planning their communication actions or e-commerce channels. They should continue updating their strategies so that they can be the first, the best, or the most original in the fashion industry. It can be very important in an era where everybody can access knowledge through one single click!
公司应该在制定其沟通行动或电子商务渠道时，充分考虑所有这些信息。他们应该继续更新其策略，以便能够在时尚产业中成为第一、最佳或最具原创性的企业。在一个每个人都可以通过一次点击获取知识的时代，这一点可能非常重要！
Ideas travel faster and faster therefore can be copied and re-arranged in a better more effective way. Let's put all these aspects together and see what happens on a practical stage. Internet & technology have basically entered into the fashion world through three different "shapes": Sale channels, new ways of communication, and production tools.
思想传播的速度越来越快，因此可以被更高效地复制和重新排列。让我们将这些方面综合起来，看看在实际层面上会发生什么。互联网和技术基本上以三种不同的“形态”进入了时尚界：销售渠道、新的沟通方式以及生产工具。
1. Sales Channels provide the possibility:
- 销售渠道提供了可能性：
- To offer a wider variety of products compared to the ones offered in a store (in terms of sizes, models, colors, and customization).
与商店中提供的相比，提供更广泛的产品种类（在尺码、型号、颜色和定制方面）。 - To explore geographical areas where it can be difficult or not profitable to set up stores and to exploit the relationship with traditional customers in new ways. In fact, customers can experience the brand not only in a physical store but also when they are at home on their computers (traditional e-commerce), when they are going to work (commuting commerce), when they are travelling (mobile commerce). So not only should the traditional website be perfect, rich of content, maybe even organized more like a magazine rather than a traditional marketplace to give the idea of experience connected to shopping, but also the mobile website is vital. This means usability and probably the existence of a dedicated app.
探索难以设立店铺或无利可图的地理区域，并创新性地利用与传统客户的关系。事实上，客户不仅可以在实体店体验品牌，还可以在家中通过电脑（传统电子商务）、上下班途中（通勤电子商务）、旅行时（移动电子商务）体验品牌。因此，不仅传统网站应完美、内容丰富，甚至可以更像杂志而非传统市场，以传递与购物相连的体验概念，而且移动网站也至关重要。这意味着可用性，可能还有专门的应用程序的存在。 - To reorganize the physical store. It becomes more and more similar to a showroom with a limited numbers of models and/or colors with which you can order what you want directly from your mobile device and you can then decide to receive the product at home or in store. E-commerce gives the possibility to offer customers e-commerce exclusives or special offers dedicated to special clients. In other words it is able to create customizable shopping experiences.
重新组织实体店。它越来越像展示厅，拥有有限数量的型号和/或颜色，你可以直接通过移动设备订购所需商品，然后决定在家中或店内接收产品。电子商务为客户提供了提供电子商务独家商品或针对特殊客户的特别优惠的可能性。换句话说，它能够创造可定制的购物体验。 - To exploit the network and know-how of platforms. All big companies today own a website with a connected online store. Usually the e-commerce page opens before other pages dedicated to corporate website. For smaller companies willing to enter the business they can create a website but to strengthen the "traffic" and number of visits and/or sales, a suitable solution is to be on platforms. A famous platform for high-end stores selling luxury and designer brands is www.farfetch.com. If the company is instead a start up producing original products an option could be www.etsy.com. Platforms perform a lot of activities related to e-commerce (photo-shooting, packaging, logistics...) for the company and help the company in better understanding the business but they are helpful only if the firm is then able to find ways to redirect traffic to its own website.
利用平台的网络和专业知识。如今，所有大公司都拥有一个网站，并连接着在线商店。通常，电子商务页面会先于公司网站的其他页面开放。对于有意进入商业领域的小公司而言，它们可以创建一个网站，但为了增强"流量"和访问次数以及/或销售额，一个合适的解决方案是在平台上进行运营。一个著名的高端商店销售奢侈和设计师品牌的平台是 www.farfetch.com。如果公司是一个生产原创产品的初创企业，一个选项可以是 www.etsy.com。平台会为公司进行大量与电子商务相关的活动（如摄影、包装、物流等），并帮助公司更好地理解商业运作，但只有当公司能够找到将流量重定向到其自身网站的方法时，这些平台才会发挥帮助作用。 - Enhancing the power of the physical shopping experience. Another choice is to use the website only as a method of communication (i.e. not intended to sell products). This is the case of the Italian department store "La Rinascente" whose website proposition is to “capture” clients for events and connect them to the stores and what they can offer exclusively as a window of the belonging city/territory enhancing the value of the physical shopping experience.
增强实体购物体验的力量。另一种选择是将网站仅作为沟通方式（即无意销售产品）。这以意大利百货公司"La Rinascente"为例，其网站提供的服务是“吸引”客户参与活动，并将他们与实体店连接起来，让他们了解专属的城/地区窗口，从而提升实体购物体验的价值。
2. A New Way to Communicate to the World:
2. 一种与世界沟通的新方式：
- Social Media customers can "stay tuned", that is to say, always be connected. Companies have the opportunity to follow customers during their daily activities through the use of social networks (Facebook, Pinterest, Twitter, Instagram, and others more focused on fashion like www.polyvore.com). This is especially true for digital natives who are used to stay connected all day using smartphones.
社交媒体客户可以“保持关注”，即始终保持连接。企业有机会通过使用社交媒体（Facebook、Pinterest、Twitter、Instagram 以及其他更专注于时尚的网站如 www.polyvore.com）在客户日常活动中进行跟踪。这对于习惯于使用智能手机全天候保持连接的数字原住民来说尤其如此。
Communication becomes more immediate and more continuous. Every day I wait for one or two posts on the Facebook page from my favorite brand. The so called digital word of mouth becomes a new form of communication which is basically free and comes directly from fans and people wanting to show their latest purchase on the web to all their friends or share the brand new lipstick from Chanel only to have something to say to their Facebook fans. This is all communication for companies. YouTube is used for sharing event videos, viral marketing actions, and advertising campaigns. It reinforces the pay-off of the company and is really useful too: (https://www.youtube.com/user/DieselPlanet).
沟通变得更加即时和持续。每天我都会等待我喜欢的品牌在 Facebook 页面上发布一两条帖子。所谓的数字口碑已成为一种新的沟通形式，基本上是免费的，直接来自粉丝和那些希望在网络上向所有朋友展示最新购买物品的人，或者只分享香奈儿的新口红，以便对他们的 Facebook 粉丝有所表示。这对公司来说都是沟通。YouTube 用于分享活动视频、病毒式营销活动和广告活动。它加强了公司的回报，也非常有用：(https://www.youtube.com/user/DieselPlanet)。。)
- Investments in online communication (Google adwords for positioning, Facebook for advertising, banners, affiliation, collaboration with bloggers).
在线沟通的投资（Google AdWords 用于定位，Facebook 用于广告，横幅，联盟，与博客作者的合作）。 - The use of newsletters: as a communication tool are key to e-commerce and to support the company strategy. Usually fashion companies use them to promote new products, special offers, pre-sales, in store events...while luxury brands use them to communicate other kind of content. Hermès, for example, sends a newsletter every two weeks to describe the world of the brand in a delicate and essential way. This is really coherent with the minimalism of the website where only a small part is dedicated to e-commerce and the emphasis goes to other elements: the project The Hermès èditeur (http://editeur-fr.hermes.com/), a collaboration with artists for limited edition carré silk scarves or a video showing the way to knot a silk scarf in a stylish way!
使用通讯录：作为一种沟通工具，对于电子商务和支撑公司战略至关重要。通常，时尚公司利用它们来推广新产品、特别优惠、预售、店内活动等，而奢侈品牌则用来传达其他类型的内容。例如，爱马仕每两周发送一次通讯录，以精致而必要的方式描述品牌的世界。这与该网站的极简主义风格非常一致，其中只有一小部分用于电子商务，而重点则放在其他元素上：爱马仕编辑项目（http://editeur-fr.hermes.com/）、与艺术家合作的限量版方格丝巾，或一个展示如何优雅地系丝巾的视频！
3. A Production Tool 3. 生产工具
- 3D Printing Used by Companies: companies can use 3D-printing for extreme personalization: body scan will allow creation of made-to-measure dresses which can be produced directly by a machine. The first 3D-printing experiments in fashion have been done by Pringle of Scotland presenting some pieces with inserts realized with 3D printing and by Iris Van Harpen a Dutch designer showing at Paris fashion shows both starting from FW14. Here we have a link referred to SS15, the latest season presented at shows.
公司使用 3D 打印：公司可以利用 3D 打印进行极致个性化定制：人体扫描将允许制作量身定制的服装，可以直接由机器生产。时尚领域最早的 3D 打印实验由苏格兰的 Pringle 公司进行，他们展示了一些带有 3D 打印插件的服装，以及荷兰设计师 Iris Van Harpen 在巴黎时装秀上展示的作品，两者均始于 FW14。这里有一个链接，指的是 SS15，即在时装秀上展示的最新季节。
- 3D Printing by End-Users: Finally for end consumers, 3D-printing gives the possibility to design their fashion products at home and make them produced by specialized firms. There are a lot of potentials for companies here too!
终端用户使用 3D 打印：最后对于终端消费者来说，3D 打印提供了在家设计时尚产品的可能性，并可以由专业公司进行生产。对于公司来说，这里也充满了巨大的潜力！